Thursday, September 18, 2025

Bengali Food & Festivals: How Cuisine Shapes Traditions & Diaspora

 


Feast and Festivity: How Bengali Food Intertwines with Festivals, Rituals, and Traditions

Bengali culture is often described as a culture of baro mase tero parbon (thirteen festivals in twelve months), and at the heart of each of these celebrations lies food. From elaborate community feasts at puja pandals to cherished family recipes prepared on special days, food is inseparable from Bengali festivals, rituals, and customs. The culinary traditions are not mere accompaniments; they are central to the way Bengalis celebrate, worship, and bond. Even far from home, Bengalis carry these food-centric traditions with them – a testament to how deeply intertwined food is with their cultural identity and festivities. This article explores some major Bengali festivals and how food plays a pivotal role in each, and also looks at how Bengalis living outside Bengal strive to keep these delicious traditions alive.



The Cultural Significance of Food in Bengali Celebrations

In Bengal, serving and sharing food is an expression of love, devotion, and community. Festival days begin with kitchens abuzz at dawn – mothers and grandmothers frying, boiling, and stirring up delicacies that have been enjoyed for generations. Every festival comes with its signature dishes or sweets, often tied to the season or the deity in focus, and these dishes are prepared with both reverence and revelry. For instance, during religious festivals, Bengalis typically offer to the divine the same foods they enjoy themselves. As historian Nrisingha Prasad Bhaduri notes, Bengalis have a long tradition of sharing their everyday food habits – including fish and meat – with the deities they worship[1]. It’s common in Bengal to see celebratory menus full of “machh, mangsho ar mishti” (fish, meat, and sweets) even on holy days. In fact, Bengalis have always indulged in non-vegetarian delicacies during their festivals, especially Durga Puja and the Bengali New Year (Poila Boishakh)[2], a practice that sets them apart from many other Indian communities for whom festival time means strict vegetarianism. The underlying sentiment is simple: if food is a source of joy and sustenance in daily life, it should be doubly so during celebrations of the divine and the auspicious.


Food also serves as a language of bonding and inclusion during festivities. Bengali proverbs and songs often equate feeding someone with showing affection. A festival’s success is often measured by how well people ate and how merrily they shared a meal. Whether it’s neighbors dropping into each other’s homes with plates of homemade sweets, or an entire community sitting down on the temple floor to eat the blessed bhog (food offered to the gods) together, the act of eating side by side cements social bonds. Even in personal rituals – say, a rice-feeding ceremony for a baby (annaprashan) or the jamai shoshti custom honoring sons-in-law – the spotlight is on a sumptuous spread of traditional dishes that convey love and blessings.


A plate of traditional Bengali festive fare, featuring luchi (fluffy fried bread) with chholar dal (Bengal gram lentil curry), accompanied by a crispy beguni (batter-fried eggplant) and a sweet rosogolla. Such delights often grace Bengali feasts during religious festivals, reflecting the community’s belief that good food is an integral part of auspicious celebrations.



Durga Puja: A Celebration of Devotion and Delicacies

No festival captures the Bengali spirit of pujo and pet pujo (worship and gastronomic indulgence) better than Durga Puja, the grand autumnal festival worshipping Goddess Durga. Durga Puja is a five-day carnival of devotion, art, and of course, food. In Kolkata and across Bengal, entire neighborhoods turn into open-air fairs with food stalls selling everything from spicy kochuri–aloor torkari (fried breads with potato curry) in the mornings to rolls, cutlets, biryani, and mishti late into the night. But beyond the street food extravaganza, it’s the sacred food offerings – the bhog – that truly signify how food and worship are woven together.


Each day of Durga Puja, priests and volunteers prepare bhog: a complete vegetarian meal cooked without onion or garlic, offered to the goddess and then distributed to devotees. The centerpiece is a fragrant khichuri (a slow-cooked medley of rice and lentils) which on Navami (the ninth day) becomes almost synonymous with bhog[3]. This khichuri is no plain fare – it’s made with aromatic short-grain Gobindobhog rice and golden moong dal, often studded with seasonal vegetables and generously drizzled with ghee. It’s accompanied by an array of sides like labra (a mixed vegetable curry), beguni (eggplant fritters), piping hot luchi or pooris, and ended with payesh (rice pudding) or other sweets[3]. Each item has ritual significance – the simplicity of khichuri represents purity and community, while the sweets signify the joy of the festival.

Bengali celebration food in households

Notably, each Bengali household or community has its unique Puja food traditions. Some old aristocratic families (bonedi bari) in Kolkata maintain centuries-old Durga Puja customs where even the bhog menu is distinctive. For example, the famed Sabarna Roy Choudhury family’s Puja includes a splendid Maha Bhog spread with ghee bhaat (clarified butter rice), basanti pulao (saffron rice), khichuri, an assortment of deep-fried vegetables, traditional fish preparations, and a variety of sweetmeats[4]. In contrast, the historic Sovabazar Rajbari eschews rice dishes in their offering and instead serves an extraordinary assortment of sweetmeats – from pantua and nimki to motichoor laddoo – all prepared by Brahmin cooks on site[5]. These traditions underscore a key point: through food, Bengalis express devotion in myriad ways, whether through a simple vegetarian fare or a lavish multi-course meal. What remains constant is the care and love poured into the cooking, mirroring the care with which the goddess is worshipped.


Durga Puja is also a time when Bengalis embrace both tradition and appetite without inhibition. It’s one of the few Hindu festivals where eating meat is not frowned upon. Many Bengalis will enjoy its signature mutton curry (kosha mangsho) or ilish maachh (hilsa fish) preparations during the Puja days, after paying respects at the pandal. As one observer wryly noted, if Bengalis eat mutton rolls at Puja pandals, it’s considered perfectly normal – “good for them”, a stark contrast to the strictly vegetarian Navratri observed elsewhere[6]. This culinary freedom is rooted in cultural history and pride. During Durga Puja, feasting is seen as a form of celebration and a way to honor the goddess with the best one can afford – which, in Bengal, often means sumptuous fish and meat along with the mandatory sweets. It’s telling that community pujas in Hyderabad or Delhi, attended by prabasi (diaspora) Bengalis, frequently arrange for authentic Bengali fare on-site. In a move blending devotion with empowerment, one Hyderabad Durga Puja committee even invited a team of women cooks from West Bengal to prepare bhog (prasadam) for thousands of devotees[7] – ensuring that even outside Bengal, worshippers could savor the exact taste of home during the festival. Durga Puja, in essence, becomes a grand communal feast“annakonno utsav” (a festival of food) – where sharing a plate of bhog or a snack from a stall with friends is as important as the rituals themselves.



From New Year to Harvest: Year-Round Festive Feasts

While Durga Puja is the crown jewel, the Bengali calendar is studded with festivals – each with its own culinary flavor. The Bengali New Year, or Poila Boishakh, is one such occasion where food plays a starring role. Marking a fresh start in mid-April, Poila Boishakh is celebrated by wearing new clothes, visiting family, and importantly, sitting down to elaborate meals. There isn’t a single mandatory dish for New Year – instead, the emphasis is on lavishness and auspicious abundance. Households prepare a bit of everything special – from shukto (a bittersweet vegetable medley) to rich fish curries, savory mutton dishes, and a gamut of sweets like rosogolla, sandesh, and mishti doi (sweet yogurt). The idea is to start the year on a full stomach and sweet note. Notably, there are no taboos on non-veg food even on this sacred day – a fact often highlighted with pride. As one cultural poster campaign famously proclaimed in Bengal, “Bangali ke niramish dekhate esho na” (“Don’t try to feed vegeterian food to a Bengali”)[8][2], underlining how strongly Bengalis feel about their fish-and-meat-loving heritage. Thus, Poila Boishakh feasting might feature the season’s first ilish machh (hilsa fish) cooked in mustard gravy – considered auspicious – or a grand platter of polau and kosha mangsho to symbolize prosperity.


When the seasons turn and winter’s chill arrives, Poush Parbon (the harvest festival in mid-January) brings with it the warmth of traditional sweets. Poush Parbon coincides with Makar Sankranti and celebrates the rice harvest and date palm jaggery of Bengal’s winter. Everything about this festival revolves around food – specifically, pithe and puli, the rustic cakes and dumplings made from rice flour, jaggery, and coconut. In both rural and urban Bengal, families come together during Poush Parbon to prepare an array of these delicacies. Kitchens overflow with activity as mothers and daughters shape, fry, steam, and fill assorted pithe. Some popular ones include patishapta (thin crepes rolled around a sweet coconut filling), puli pitha (rice flour dumplings, sometimes filled and simmered in milk), and nolen gurer payesh (rice pudding made with fragrant new-date jaggery). These treats are more than just desserts; they are “edible heritage,” symbolizing the land’s bounty and the sweetness of togetherness. As one account describes, “families come together to prepare an array of pithe and puli – rice-based sweets filled with jaggery and coconut. These delicacies are not just indulgences for the palate but are deeply symbolic of the land’s agricultural bounty”[9]. In towns, community organizations and even cultural fairs like Poush Mela in Shantiniketan celebrate this tradition, with stalls brimming with hot pithe being served to eager visitors. The air, thick with the aroma of boiling milk and molten jaggery, all but announces that winter has been welcomed in the sweetest way possible.


An assortment of traditional pithe prepared during Poush Parbon, Bengal’s winter harvest festival. These rice-based sweets – filled or drizzled with nolen gur (date palm jaggery) – include delicacies like patishapta crepes, fried gokul pithe, sesame til ladoo, and more. Families across Bengal lovingly craft these confections each January, celebrating the season’s harvest through shared sweets and time-honored recipes.


Other festivals similarly showcase unique food traditions. Saraswati Puja (early spring) may be known as Bengal’s informal “students’ festival” (with youngsters worshipping the goddess of learning), but it’s also a day of simple delights – after the prayers, children relish khichuri bhog and boondi laddoos as prasad, often followed by a carefree afternoon picnic with friends. Kojagori Lokkhi Puja (Lakshmi Puja, just after Durga Puja) transforms Bengali homes into mini sweet factories – mothers and grandmothers prepare narkel naru (coconut fudge balls), moong daler bhaja pithe, and payesh, which are offered to the goddess of prosperity and later devoured by the family. During Kali Puja (Diwali night in Bengal), while much of India lights lamps and avoids meat, many Bengali families follow the old Shakta tradition by sacrificing a goat or pumpkin to goddess Kali and then partaking in an auspicious feast of goat curry, believing it to be blessed. And Bhai Phonta (Bhai Dooj) is another intimate custom where a sister prays for her brother’s well-being by applying a sacred mark on his forehead, then feeds him homemade sweets – a ritual meal that reaffirms sibling love. In each case, the act of preparing or sharing specific foods elevates the ritual, turning it into a fuller sensory experience and passing on cultural values through the palate.

Memory from my Annaprashan (Rice Ceremony)

Family Rituals and the Language of Food

Beyond the grand public festivals, Bengali culture is replete with smaller, familial ceremonies where food is the primary medium of expressing love and blessings. One shining example is Jamai Shasthi, a day dedicated to the son-in-law. On this day, typically in early summer, Bengali mothers-in-law roll out a red carpet of dishes for their jamai (son-in-law). The menu is traditionally extravagant – expect multiple fish curries (especially hilsa or prawns if in season), a hearty mutton or chicken curry, various vegetable sides, chutneys, and a spread of sweets – in short, a miniature wedding feast. The ritual itself involves the mother-in-law performing a small puja for the son-in-law’s well-being, tying a protective thread on his wrist, and then feeding him as if he were a king. It’s often said that a mother shows her affection to her daughter’s husband best by trying to fatten him up! The essence of Jamai Shasthi is beautifully summed up by the fact that it’s “a joyous occasion where loved ones gather to share a meal and enjoy each other’s company, fostering togetherness and unity”[10]. The shared meal is the highlight – as everyone partakes in the feast, the new family bond is strengthened in the most delicious way imaginable. In modern times, social media lights up on Jamai Shasthi with photos of groaning tables topped with fish head curries and decadent desserts, showing that this custom – however old-fashioned it may seem – is alive and well in Bengali life.


Food is similarly central in lifecycle rituals. At a baby’s Annaprashan (first rice-eating ceremony), after the priest offers the first spoonful of sweet rice to the child, a grand banquet follows where relatives bless the child by feeding bits of various dishes. At Bengali weddings, a series of food rituals – from ashirbaad (where elder relatives feed sweets to bless the couple) to the bou bhaat (the new bride’s first meal she serves in her husband’s home) – underscore how food is the vehicle for conveying blessings, acceptance, and joy. Even in solemn occasions like shraddh (prayers for the departed), a sumptuous vegetarian feast is cooked and served to community members or the poor, because feeding others in the loved one’s memory is considered the highest honor one can give. Clearly, in Bengal’s cultural imagination, to cook or serve someone food is to offer a part of one’s soul – and every ritual from birth to death finds meaning through this act.


Keeping Traditions Alive Away from Home

The rich tapestry of Bengali food traditions might have its roots in West Bengal and Bangladesh, but it extends far beyond – wherever Bengalis go, they carry their festive recipes and rituals with them. For the Bengali diaspora (prabasi Bengalis), recreating the tastes of home is often the easiest way to recreate home itself. For Bengalis living away from their homeland, a festival like Durga Puja becomes more than a religious celebration – it’s a link to their roots[11]. Each year, prabasi Bengalis from Delhi to Dubai, Hyderabad to Houston gather to celebrate Durga Puja (and other festivals), blending nostalgia with tradition to create a sense of home in their adopted cities[11]. Food lies at the heart of these efforts. The community members pool resources to cook authentic bhog in far-flung places; families hunt for the right ingredients – be it the proper gobindobhog rice for khichuri or a prized hilsa in foreign waters – to ensure the flavors are just as they remember. In Dehradun’s Bengali community, for example, teachers Anjan and Rituparna Chaudhary wake up at dawn during Durga Puja to make bhog and alpona (ritual rice flour drawings) before heading to work, determined to pass on these traditions to their daughter growing up in a prabas (foreign land)[12][13]. Such scenes are echoed in diaspora pockets worldwide.


Even in places like Hyderabad, which hosts a sizeable Bengali community, the effort to live up to tradition is remarkable. The city boasts several Bengali cultural associations decades old, but also new initiatives by enthusiastic expats. One such rising star is the Bengalis and Hyderabad Collective,” a community group that was only formed during Durga Puja 2024 yet has already struck a chord among Bengalis in Hyderabad. This Collective came together with the aim of organizing authentic food festivals embed in the cultural celebrations – and they delivered. Through social media and word of mouth, the group’s events quickly became the talk of the town – “making headlines” in the local Bengali circle for the sheer passion and authenticity they brought. Such success is a testament to how strongly Bengalis, even far from home, yearn for and prioritize their food and festival heritage. It’s not unusual for Kolkata parents visiting their children in other cities to pack suitcases of homemade narus, nimki, or even fish so that Durga Puja or Diwali abroad can taste “right”. In London or New Jersey, Bengali associations coordinate “bhog cooking” where dozens of non-resident Bengalis take the day off to chop vegetables and stir giant pots of khichuri in temple parking lots – a labor of love to ensure their community away from home does not miss out on the familiar comfort of Puja cuisine[12]. At many overseas Pujas, a highlight is the community lunch or dinner known as “Bongobhoj”, a veritable buffet of Bengali dishes that everyone shares in with great gusto[14].


Through these culinary efforts, diaspora Bengalis keep their rituals alive in foreign soil. The food becomes a powerful trigger of memory and identity – one bite of a perfectly spiced ilish or a fragrant payesh, and suddenly one is transported back to childhood, to grandparents’ kitchens, to the bustle of Kolkata’s festive streets. As a result, festivals continue to bind Bengalis worldwide into a close-knit community. They may be geographically scattered, but the taste of home unites them across distances. The Indian Express aptly described how prabasi gatherings blend nostalgia with tradition to create a home away from home[11]. In those moments, whether in Hyderabad or Houston, as Bengalis sit together singing Agomoni songs (hymns welcoming the goddess) and savoring a plate of bhog, there is a shared feeling that “home” is not just where you were born – home is wherever the adda (chat), pujo, and pithe are.




From the grandeur of Durga Puja to the homely warmth of Poush Parbon, Bengali festivals exemplify the saying that food is a celebration in itself. Each ritual and custom is enriched by flavors and recipes handed down over centuries. In Bengal, to celebrate is to cook and to feed – gods, guests, and oneself. Food serves as a bridge between the material and the spiritual, the personal and the communal. It expresses devotion, ushers in seasons, and nurtures relationships. And for those Bengalis who live far from the soil of Bengal, recreating these food traditions is often the most heartfelt way to keep their culture alive. Festivals, after all, live on through the memories they create – and nothing evokes memory quite like the taste and aroma of one’s native cuisine. In the tapestry of Bengali life, festival and feast are woven tightly together, reminding us that sometimes the richest stories of culture can be found simmering in a pot or nestled on a banana leaf.

In the words of a popular Bengali adage, “ananada bhoriya ridoye mone, bhoriya uthuk pet” – let the heart fill with joy and let the stomach be filled to contentment. In Bengal, both happen together, especially during a festival. Food is how Bengalis celebrate their gods, their loved ones, and their very identity – truly intertwining feast with faith, ritual with recipe, and custom with cuisine[15][10].

Sources:

·         Indian Express – A home away from home: The story of prabasi Bengalis and their Durga Puja traditions[11][12]

·         India Today – Why fish-meat on Bengali religious festivals?[1][2]

·         India Currents – Culinary Traditions During Durga Puja[3][4][5]

·         Local Samosa – Poush Parbon 2025: Celebrate Bengal’s Beloved Pithe Puli Season[9]

·         Hindustan Times – Jamai Sasthi 2023: Traditional recipes to make for your son-in-law[10]

·         Times of India – Women Safety, Call For Justice Echo At Hyderabad’s Durga Pandals[7]

·         Deccan Chronicle – Hyderabad’s Bengali Community Celebrates a Unique Blend of Durga Puja and Local Traditions[16][17]


[1] [2] [8] Why fish-meat on Bengali religious festivals? Historian Nrisingha Bhaduri explains - India Today

https://www.indiatoday.in/india-today-insight/story/why-fish-meat-on-bengali-religious-festivals-historian-nrisingha-bhaduri-explains-2529878-2024-04-21

[3] [4] [5] [15] Culinary Traditions During Durga Puja

https://indiacurrents.com/culinary-traditions-during-durga-puja/

[6] If Bengalis eat mutton rolls at Puja pandals, good for them ... - Reddit

https://www.reddit.com/r/india/comments/17guksc/if_bengalis_eat_mutton_rolls_at_puja_pandals_good/

[7] Women Safety: Empowerment and Justice: Women Stand Strong at Hyderabad's Durga Puja | Hyderabad News - Times of India

https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/hyderabad/empowerment-and-justice-women-stand-strong-at-hyderabads-durga-puja/articleshow/114057330.cms

[9]  Poush Parbon 2025: Celebrate Bengal’s Beloved Pithe Puli Season

https://www.localsamosa.com/people-culture/poush-parbon-2025-8586070

[10] Jamai Sasthi 2023: Traditional Bengali recipes to make for your son-in-law - Hindustan Times

https://www.hindustantimes.com/lifestyle/recipe/jamai-sasthi-2023-traditional-bengali-recipes-to-make-for-your-soninlaw-101684925252136.html

[11] [12] [13] A home away from home: The story of prabasi Bengalis and their Durga Puja traditions | Research News - The Indian Express

https://indianexpress.com/article/research/a-home-away-from-home-the-story-of-prabasi-bengalis-and-their-durga-puja-traditions9611278-9611278/

[14] Durga Puja In The US : How It All Began - The Space Ink

https://thespace.ink/lifestyle/durga-puja-in-the-us-cities-and-suburbs/

[16] [17] Hyderabad's Bengali Community Celebrates a Unique Blend of Durga Puja and Local Traditions

https://www.deccanchronicle.com/southern-states/telangana/hyderabads-bengali-community-celebrates-a-unique-blend-of-durga-puja-and-local-traditions-1829100

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